Three Days in Copenhagen, the Underrated Nordic City with Surprises at Every Turn

A young soul with century-old bones, Copenhagen truly contains multitudes. If history and culture is your passion, you can spend an entire day admiring the Royal Palace and Copenhagen’s most iconic historical landmarks, like the Little Mermaid statue, based on the tale by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. While the statue is known to attract hordes of tourists, it’s attracted other attention from locals; the Little Mermaid has been repeatedly vandalized and even decapitated twice—and locals will tell you that the original head has only been found once.

Copenhagen is also a paradigm of green living and sustainable modernity. In recent years, the city has made tangible efforts to not only promote eco-tourism, but also design entire neighborhoods, like Nordhavn, with sustainability in mind.

Greenery is taken seriously in Copenhagen, too, even in its most literal sense; the city flaunts a variety of gardens and green spaces. From Freetown Christiania’s tall forest trees and wild bushes to the city’s navigable canals and curated gardens—including The Botanical Garden, which features Denmark’s largest collection of living plants—visitors and locals can surround themselves in an idyllic, almost bucolic setting without leaving the city center.

While Copenhagen’s party scene is far from lacking (there’s a whole repurposed shipyard island, dubbed Refshaleøen, that is mainly home to breweries, street food vendors and restaurants, and club venues), the city is conscious of the kind of tourism it wants to attract. In other words, Copenhagen wants its visitors to have fun, but to do so respectfully. Recently, the city introduced a program to reward tourists and locals who behave sustainably with perks like free beers or passes to the city's artificial ski slope, dubbed CopenHill.

Whether you’re looking to satisfy your cultural curiosity, learn about and support sustainable development, or dance the night way, Copenhagen, the eclectic and underrated Nordic city, is the place for you.

See: The sculpture park at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. The Louisiana sits just outside of Copenhagen but is easily reachable by public transport. Its entire complex is remarkable thanks to both its modern and contemporary art collection and its seamless integration of architecture and landscape, but its sculpture park is a true hidden gem.

Touch: The canals' water after a night out. As locals will tell you—and as they told me—in the warmer months it’s common practice to cap off a night of dancing at the club with a refreshing early-morning dip to wash the night away. Just hop on a bike and ask for advice on the closest canal swimming area—you won’t regret it, and Copenhagen’s canals are known for being quite clean.

Smell: Freshly brewed beer. Copenhagen is home to many breweries, and beer culture is huge in the city. If you’re a beer fan, head over to one of the city’s most acclaimed local breweries, such as Mikkeller and Carlsberg, to take in all the scents, and do a tasting tour.

Hear: Every summer, the electronic and disco music festival Karrusel takes over Copenhagen’s island of Refshaleøen for three days. It’s a beloved event both for locals and tourists looking to dance day and night away in the summer, and it takes place in a very unique setting—the woods. Acclaimed international DJs are always flocking to the event, and past editions have welcomed onstage huge names in the electronic scene, such as Acid Pauli, Amelie Lens, Dixon, FJAAK, Folamour, Peggy Gou, and more. If you’re not there for the festival, do not fret—you can hit up Culture Box or Pumpehuset for gigs any time of year.

Taste: The Fisk. But beware: you probably won’t like it, and neither do most Danes. While it’s a Danish liquor that everybody knows, it’s commonly referred to as something you “only drink at parties” like you would a shot. It tastes strong—but it will get you tipsy.

Slow living in Copenhagen deserves its own dedicated mention. It’s still a city, so life in Copenhagen can be hectic—but locals always know how to take it down a notch in favor of slower, more sustainable, and greener choices.

The neighborhood of Nordhavn, a harbor area that was founded in the late 19th century, is now a melting pot for both tourists and locals alike. In addition to being home to many creative and tech companies, it's also a residential area providing sustainable transportation and connection to the city center (which you can reach in only 15 minutes by metro). Public rooftop gardens abound here, as well as public swimming areas that are open year-round.

Transforming a raw industrial area into a trendy and buzzy location is a Copenhagen thing, and it certainly doesn’t only happen in Nordhavn. Refshaleøen, which was once a shipyard island, is now home to not only vibey restaurants (including La Banchina, which is a locally-loved laid-back eatery by the water), but also to Reffen, an open-air street food market. Picture this: a whole market made of shipping containers turned into little shops and international food joints, where visitors can taste delicacies from all over the world.

9 am - Rent a “Donkey” and ride around the city. In Copenhagen, you’ll notice that most locals prefer riding their bike. It’s both a green choice and a timesaver—and it allows you to see the neighborhoods you want on your own terms.

11 am - Go on a sustainable shopping spree. Copenhagen flaunts an incredibly high number of vintage stores, and fashionistas will know those are the best shops to find hidden gems. Among the many stores, locals recommend paying a visit to Keiko, Time’s Up Vintage, Rosy Vintage, Carmen Copenhagen, Perfectly Worn Vintage, Quirky Lane, Kilostore CPH, and Crush.

1 pm - Indulge in a tasty brunch at Baryl, where almost everything on the menu is homemade. It has locations in the Østerbro, Frederiksberg, and Indre By neighborhoods, and you should not miss out on their delicious smørrebrød (Denmark’s iconic open-faced sandwiches).

4 pm - Head over to Nordhavn and take a dip at Sandkaj Harbour bath (even in the winter!). Warm yourself up with a coffee and a bite right after at Original Coffee Nordhavn, located on the boardwalk right behind the swimming area.

7 pm - Taste incredible potato-skin ice cream at Gro Spiseri, an organic rooftop restaurant located in Østerbro and surrounded by Copenhagen’s first community rooftop farm.

9 pm - Wind down and sip on some natural wine at Pompette. The wine bar prides itself on building a natural wine menu that has been tested by the staff before serving. The ambiance is laid-back, yet still very cool and trendy—the perfect setting for feeling like a local without trying too hard.

Art lovers who are looking to marvel at gorgeous paintings, awe-inspiring sculptures, and romantic buildings should not miss Copenhagen. The city is full of art everywhere you look, from the sumptuous Amalienborg Palace, which is the official residence of the royal family, to the many gorgeous museums scattered around town. Locals will advise you not to miss out on the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, and if you’re looking for art and culture across different movements and time periods, then the National Museum of Denmark is the right pick for you.

You don’t have to be indoors to admire the city from a historical perspective, though. Walking, biking, and boat tours are popular in Copenhagen—and not only for tourists! As Mathias Panduro, Hey Captain’s boat captain and tour guide will tell you, local Danes in Copenhagen use “boat culture as a getaway.” You may partake in an organized tour with a guide or rent your own little boat to cruise through the canals (according to Mathias, GoBoat is pretty good, and you don’t need a license to rent it). Plus, you can always bring food and beverages aboard and have a little picnic on the water—and you’ll notice locals doing the same on a sunny weekend.

9 am - Taste art in the form of avocado at Atelier September. This vegetarian cafe located in the center of Copenhagen is the closest point of contact between art and breakfast. Once a furniture and antiques store, Atelier September is now also a breakfast cafe helmed by chef Frederik Bille Brahe. Do not miss out on their beautifully (and flavorfully) crafted thin-sliced avocado toast—and make sure to snap a few pictures for your social media.

11 am - Rent a GoBoat and head for some water-based sightseeing. For less than $100, you and up to eight friends can make your own itinerary on your own time. You’ll see a lot: most of Copenhagen’s most iconic landmarks—including the Royal Palace, the Opera House, the Reffen street market, as well as The Little Mermaid statue— are located by the water, and you can sail right past them with your boat.

1 pm - Grab a quick French bite at Le Trois Cochons. Located in a repurposed butcher shop, Le Trois Cochons is a local favorite for when you’re craving typical French bistro cuisine. Steak frites is obviously on the menu, and you can’t miss out on their croque madame.
 

2 pm - Sip on a refreshing drink on the terrace of the Glyptoteket museum and take in all the views. From there, you can admire the gorgeous dome of the museum (don’t miss its winter garden!), as well as Copenhagen’s famous Tivoli Gardens rides and the city’s skyline. But beware: the terrace closes every day at 4 pm, except on summer Thursdays, when it’s open a little longer and it often hosts fun events. Check out the schedule here.

7 pm - Swing by the Danish Architecture Center for the afters. Every last Thursday of the month, the Danish Architecture Center hosts After DAC, an after-hours event in which guests can sit down for a panel discussion with architect Ane Cortzen on a variety of topics revolving around art, culture and, of course, architecture. Plus, all exhibitions are open until 9 pm for the occasion—and you can get a nice chat with the hosts while on your little museum night tour.

10 pm - Order a good old bottle of wine at Café Dan Turell. Located in the city center and one of the cool hangout areas of town, Café Dan Turell is named after the famous Danish writer, journalist, and social critic of the same name, who impacted the Danish social scene of the 20th Century. The Café is home to a remarkable collection of wines, both local and international, including a vast list of champagnes. Personally, mulling over an art-infused day with a glass of wine is the best way to draw the curtains.

If your idea of travel revolves around partying the night away with your friends, don’t sleep on Copenhagen. While it might seem like a quiet, unassuming locale, this city knows how to get down. There are a number of neighborhoods known for their nightlife scenes. Christiania (also known as Freetown) is one of them, and it is an intentional and semi-independent commune located in the Christianshavn neighborhood. Why is it so beloved by night owls? As Elvira, my server at Granola (a great spot to grab drinks before dinner) told me, Christiania is known for its many pop-up concerts and live music on the weekends, which is the perfect start to a night out. In the recent past, it was also known by locals and tourists alike for its lax drug regulations, especially around cannabis. But beware! The open cannabis trade was pretty much shut down earlier this year—so it might be a little harder for you to get some of that za (which remains illegal in Denmark).

Meatpacking, on the other end, is a fully legal party neighborhood. A local-favorite location on weekends, most people meet up here to go bar hopping and, later, head over to one of the many clubs in the area, which span a wide variety of genres, from techno and electronic to more mainstream sounds.

You have to know where to go (and how to act) beforehand, though. If you’re geared towards pop music, opt for a night out at Søpavillonen, but it’s best if you’ve already made local friends before. “You need to know people to get in,” says Robert August Hansen, who was born and raised in Copenhagen. Otherwise, Hansen suggests opting for Hangaren, as long as you get tickets beforehand. Techno fans should head over to either Den Anden Side or Module. The key to getting in? “Dress and act like Berlin locals,” Hansen says. And in the summer, don’t forget the city’s two most popular festivals: Distortion Ø, which inaugurates the summer season and Karrusel, which takes place late in the summer.

The day after you can always recover on the water. If you’re up for a very early morning dip, you can totally do that, even if it’s winter (according to Captain Panduro, winter sea and canal swimming is huge in Copenhagen, and Glaecier is the city’s largest swimming club). Otherwise, you can head to one of the city’s many harbor swimming areas and float the night away. Oh, and did I mention that floating saunas are a thing?

9 am - Fill your stomach up with eggs at Beau Marché. We all know the drill: Before a big day (and night) of partying, fueling up is key, lest you feel sick and drained in the middle of the day. At Beau Marché, located in the city center, you can do just that. If you’re not yet eyeing the two fried eggs on toast, Gruyère and chives, you definitely should.

10 am - Find an outfit for the night on Strøget. Without having to walk much, right after breakfast you can find yourself on Strøget, Copenhagen’s main shopping street—which might be the best place to find something cool to wear on your night out. It’s got it all—from top luxury brands to more accessible, international brands (as well as local boutiques, too).

12 pm - Grab a bite at Morgenstedet in Christiania. And while you’re there, check out the district, too. Morgenstedet is a vegan eatery, and it flaunts a very pretty garden. It’s based on sharing and communal concepts, so you pretty much set the table up for yourself. On top of being downright delicious, it’s also pretty affordable—which is great when you have a whole day of partying planned.

5 pm - Start fueling up with craft beer at Warpigs. Located in Meatpacking, this brewery is a good option if you’re looking to taste local and artisanal beers. If you’re more in the mood for meeting new people, though, Hansen suggests heading over to Mesteren Og Lærlingen, where you can stand outside and chit chat with fellow bar hoppers.

8 pm - Fancy it up at Pluto. This is one of your go-to spots before hitting the club—according to locals, it’s a bit fancy, but they say that’s also the crew you might encounter in some of the city’s most acclaimed clubs.

Late night - Dance the night away at Culture Box. It’s easy to reach, it’s easy to access, and locals love it. What more would you want? It’s also hyper-inclusive, and it is equipped with a “Safer Space Crew,” which monitors behavior that might make other people uncomfortable. You can dance safely here, so let loose!

Hotel D’Angleterre ($$$$)
Arguably the most famous and iconic hotel in Copenhagen, Hotel D’Angleterre is a five-star wonder in the city. Committed to luxury and elegance, staying here will make you feel part of the actual Danish royalty.

Manon Les Suites ($$$)
Another five-star hotel, Manon Les Suites is on average less expensive than Hotel D’Angleterre, but it isn’t certainly lacking in its charm. It is located right by the water, and its interior pool is something that will make your jaw drop. Picture a rainforest, but in the middle of the city.

Fairfield by Marriott ($$)
Think about American comfort, but with a Nordic twist and Scandinavian design and decor. Copenhagen’s new Fairfield by Marriott opened early in 2024, and it is located in Nordhavn. As such, it is in line with the neighborhood, and aims at promoting sustainability and a true local experience. It is also equipped with bikes for you to borrow and ride around town.

Copenhagen is a city that keeps bike riders top of mind, so biking around town is one of your best options to experience the city like a local. Alternatively, its subway and public transport system is very efficient, and you can get a single ticket starting from DKK 24 (roughly $3.50). Otherwise, taxis are always available.

Copenhagen uses the Danish Krone (DKK). At the time of writing in July 2024, 1 Danish Krone equals $0.15.

Copenhagen and Denmark use Plug Type C, E, F and K. They are the ones with two round pins. As per Denmark’s standard voltage, it’s 230V with a frequency of 50Hz.

As it often goes with Nordic countries, summer is your best bet for very pleasant weather. From June to August, you can experience the Danish summer, characterized by long, sun-filled days and nights as well as warm, yet still refreshing temperatures (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit on average).

While you might not get to experience the so-called “midnight sun” in Copenhagen, the city is located up north enough that, during the summer months, you can enjoy very extended periods of daylight. That means that on the longest day of the year (the summer solstice) you can catch roughly 17-18 hours of daylight in the city, which is a great incentive to stay out late.

The other side of the coin, though, is that if you happen to be in Copenhagen during the dead of winter (the winter solstice) you’ll get only about seven hours of daylight.

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