How to Spend Two Fancy but Affordable Days in Palm Springs
This desert oasis isn’t just for the rich and famous. From cactarium tours to happy hour specials, here’s how to visit without burning a hole in your wallet
You’ve heard the legends about Palm Springs: stunning midcentury modern architecture, perpetually sunny skies, and Old Hollywood lore. But you’ve also probably heard about the price tags that can accompany such a lifestyle. Don’t fret. An escape to Southern California’s eye-poppingly beautiful low desert doesn’t have to mean maxing out your credit cards. With strategic planning, you can bask in the upscale glory of Palm Springs and not break the bank.
For starters, know that Palm Springs is one of nine cities that make up the Coachella Valley, which stretches for 45 miles between the San Bernardino, San Jacinto, and Santa Rosa mountains. (The famed Coachella Music and Arts Festival takes place in Indio, which is about 20 miles from Palm Springs.) Prices are much lower in adjacent towns like Desert Hot Springs and Cathedral City. However, for true Palm Springs vibes, well, you need to be in Palm Springs.
Who I am: I’ve called Southern California home for most of my adult life. I’m Derrik J. Lang, a travel, culture, lifestyle, and entertainment journalist who has been visiting Palm Springs for nearly two decades and who has owned a home there for the past five years. I understand the unique sensibilities of Coachella Valley’s most famous and inclusive destination, whether it’s avoiding weekend crowds or figuring out what to wear (the answer is usually a caftan).
Before You Go
How to get there: The easiest options are driving or flying. Palm Springs is about 100 miles from Los Angeles and typically takes about two hours by car. Opt for a vehicle if you plan to explore the rest of the Coachella Valley or motor up to Joshua Tree. Sticking to Palm Springs? Flying into the adorable Palm Springs International Airport (PSP) is super convenient. Sure, it’s likely more expensive than transiting through the Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) or the Ontario International Airport (ONT), but go ahead and splurge and land directly in Palm Springs.
Know the seasons: Palm Springs is essentially split into two seasons: summer and not summer. From about October to April, the temperatures are absolutely lovely. At night, it’s often cool enough for a light jacket or blanket while lounging by a fire pit. Palm Springs will be at its hottest from June to August. But that doesn’t mean you should avoid the city. In fact, the best deals are offered in summer; just know that some restaurants and shops close, and outdoor activities like hiking won’t be possible most of the day. It’ll be too uncomfortable — or unsafe.
Getting around: Public transit isn’t Palm Springs’ strong suit. There are minimal bus routes, so most vehicle-less visitors must rely on rideshare services and taxis for anything beyond walking and biking. During high season, rideshares are readily available. If you’re visiting when there are fewer crowds, expect longer waits and potentially higher prices on the apps. Coming to town during big events like Modernism Week or the Palm Springs International Film Festival will also make navigating more cumbersome but not entirely impossible. Fortunately, it’s a small city.
Insider tip: There are scads of vacation rentals in Palm Springs, and they can be a more efficient choice if you’re traveling with a large group or craving exclusive amenities, such as having a kitchen or pool to yourself. Be warned: These accommodations are not intended to be your own personal Playboy mansion. Local law enforcement is very strict about noise ordinances, and most vacation rentals have stringent rules on issues such as partying, cleaning, and parking.
Where to Stay
Two Slightly Fancy Days in Palm Springs
Day 1: Canyons, cacti, and the Rat Pack
Morning
- Fuel up with java or tea at Koffi, a locally owned coffee shop which has three locations across Palm Springs. (They roast their beans in nearby Rancho Mirage.) For those looking to cool down, Koffi also serves addictive coffee and tea freezes.
- Go for a hike at the stunning Indian Canyons, which have been sacred to the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians since time immemorial. A day pass costs around $12 and allows visitors to experience one-of-a-kind palm groves, waterfalls, and rock formations across three main canyons: Palm, Andreas, and Murray. The hikes range from easy to moderate — and don’t forget to bring drinking water.
Afternoon
- Head to Low Desert for authentic Mexican cuisine like birria tacos and polzole soup served in a comfortably modern setting. A daily lunch special includes two street tacos, a side dish, and fountain beverage for $18, and an extensive happy hour is on offer from 2 to 5 p.m. The eatery also features several vegan and vegetarian options.
- For an only-in-Palm-Springs scene, pop into the quirky Moorten Botanical Garden, a privately owned "cactarium" showcasing a vast collection of desert plant life. The $7 admission fee will justify all the attention that your pics will receive on social media.
- Browse the many boutiques, art galleries, and other shops lining Palm Canyon Drive, downtown Palm Springs’ main thoroughfare. Peepa’s and Destination PSP sell well-curated souvenirs, such as art prints, bags, and candles — many crafted by local makers. Need a sweet treat? Brandini Toffee was founded and is made in the Coachella Valley. As you journey along Palm Canyon Drive, be sure to look down at the ground. The Palm Springs Walk of Stars pays tribute to the movers and shakers (Bob Hope, Lisa Vanderpump) who made their mark on the desert city.
Evening
- For a taste of Hollywood glamour, start the night off with a cocktail at Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Inn. In the lounge area, framed photographs tell the story of the many A-listers who visited in the past: Lucille Ball, John Travolta, Frank Sinatra, Jerry Lewis, and Cher, just to name-drop a few. Hungry for more? Many of the restaurant’s servers have worked there for decades and have juicy stories to tell, if you butter them up.
- Saunter to Maleza at the Drift hotel for chef Ysaac Ramirez’s shareable Baja-centric fare, like shrimp ceviche with aji carrot aguachile and fried oysters with fries and jalapeno crema. A daily happy hour shaves a few bucks off many of the best dishes, cocktails, cervezas, and wines—including nonalcoholic options.
- Attend one of Palm Springs’ many free events. Spots like the Ace Hotel & Swim Club Palm Springs, Thompson Palm Springs, and The Saguaro Palm Springs book DJs and live music performers that are often open to the public. (If you’re visiting on a Thursday, the weekly Palm Springs VillageFest street fair takes over Palm Canyon Drive with artists, food vendors, and live music.) In season, there’s always something going on.
Day 2: Croissants, desert views, and drag queens
Morning
- Start the day with one of Palm Springs’ finest croissants at the no-frills pâtisserie Peninsula Pastries, which works magic with flour and butter from France to craft their mouth-watering baked goods. Grab an olive loaf for later, too.
- After loading up on carbs, make the trek to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, a rotating tramcar that sends riders on a jaw-dropping 10-minute ride from the desert floor up into the San Jacinto Mountains. The temperature is usually 30 degrees lower at the peak, so pack the appropriate gear to admire the view and meander through the hiking trails. There are plenty of picnic tables to snack on that olive loaf.
Afternoon
- For a casual but hearty lunch back down in the desert, order a smashburger at The Heyday, owned by a local couple who started slinging their beloved patties at Palm Springs VillageFest before opening a brick-and-mortar location. Not a meat eater? Their housemade Magic Mushroom veggie burger is delicious and not overly processed. Bonus: There’s a full bar — not just wine and beer — so why not have a martini with that burger.
- Continue south to the Uptown Design District, an aesthetically obsessed stretch of Palm Canyon Drive. An enviable collection of vintage boutiques, art galleries, and home furnishing shops offer something for every personality. For a hit of coffee, ice cream, air conditioning, or more shopping, dip into Flannery Exchange, a laid-back multi-purpose complex across the street from The Shag Store, the gallery of the retro-loving artist Josh Agle, a.k.a. Shag.
Evening
- Feast at Lola Rose Grand Mezze, chef Quentin Garcia’s chic Eastern Mediterranean-tinged restaurant at the Thompson Palm Springs hotel. The beauty of the menu, which includes spreads like fire-roasted eggplant and muhammara laced with pomegranate molasses, is that you can share as much or as little as you desire.
- Palm Springs is an iconic LGBTQ+ haven. Several bars, lounges, and hotels like Toucans Tiki Lounge & Cabaret and Hunters Palm Springs host over-the-top drag performances. Check their schedules for the latest lip sync extravaganzas, bingo sessions, and brunches. Because if you didn’t see a drag queen in Palm Springs, did you really go to Palm Springs?
If you have three days
All of the above, but add…
- Explore the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum, which opened in 2023 and tells the captivating story of the Cahuilla people, who inhabited the area long before Frank Sinatra and Dinah Shore made Palm Springs famous. There are interactive exhibits and artifacts—some found underneath the 48,000-square-foot building during construction.
- Relax at The Spa at Séc-he, built on the site of Agua Caliente Hot Mineral Springs. If the treatments are too pricey, a day pass nets access to all the facility’s amenities, such as salt caves, grounding rooms, a state-of-the-art gym, and outdoor swimming pool with a waterfall. Access to the spa includes the Taking of the Waters ceremony, during which guests can soak in the ancient spring’s mineral-rich waters.
- If your visit falls in December 2025 or later, catch a performance at the Plaza Theatre, which is set to reopen that month after an 11-year, multimillion-dollar makeover. Located in the heart of downtown, the theater originally opened in 1936 and over the years hosted major film premieres and radio broadcasts. A slate of musicians, comedians, and other performers are expected to take the stage in a fully restored space that will feel like sitting underneath twinkling stars. Tickets for several upcoming shows start at around $50.
If you have four days
All of the above, but add…
- Venture behind the pink walls to Sunnylands Center & Gardens, the former estate of philanthropists Walter and Leonore Annenberg, in nearby Rancho Mirage. The sprawling midcentury home has welcomed world leaders and celebrities like Queen Elizabeth II and President Ronald Reagan. Stroll through the lush gardens, which provided a backdrop for historic meetings and significant moments in American diplomacy.
- For an up-close look at the stars, the Rancho Mirage Library and Observatory provides astronomer-led stargazing opportunities with its 27.5-inch, research-grade telescope hidden inside a retractable dome. Check the observatory’s schedule for observation nights and behind-the-scenes tours.
- Staying at The Ritz-Carlton, Rancho Mirage might be out of the budget, but dinner at The Edge Steakhouse is worth it for the views alone. The restaurant, which recently expanded its menu, is perched 650 feet above the ground with floor-to-ceiling windows offering dazzling views while you enjoy sizzling steaks, lamb chops, and scallops.