How to Spend a Weekend in Yosemite With Kids
Hike, bike, and explore one of the most beautiful places in the world with the whole family
I’m always surprised when an L.A. or San Francisco friend mentions that they haven’t been to Yosemite Valley: We Californians live within less than a half day’s drive to one of the most spectacular natural sites in the world. Part of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the Yosemite Valley is home to giant sequoia groves, breathtaking waterfalls including North America’s tallest, iconic granite monoliths El Capitan and Half Dome, and stunning vistas. The sheer scale of the place, particularly for those who didn’t grow up on the west coast surrounded by redwoods, feels nothing short of jaw-dropping. And with kids, the wonderment is exponential.
For those of us who have been coming for years or decades, we’ve discovered that during every life stage, whether with toddlers or teens, Yosemite National Park — which covers 1,200 square miles — overdelivers. On average, about 4 million people visit Yosemite each year for hiking, mountaineering, river rafting and tubing, fly fishing, photography, horseback and mule riding, bicycling to cross-country and downhill skiing, snowboarding and ice skating — pick your season, pack your bags, and choose your own adventure.
Who I am: My dad, a native Angeleno, has been visiting Yosemite with his family every year since 1949 — so naturally I’ve been to Yosemite almost every year of my own life, a tradition I’ve continued with my kids. Sure, I was born a decade too late to witness the Glacier Point Firefall, in which burning embers were pushed over a 3,000-foot drop to the valley floor. But I have experienced every season in the park and hiked countless trails over the past half century, including a trip up Half Dome without cables where lightning cut short what would have been my second summit — a mere 25 feet from the top. Ten out of ten do not recommend hiking in a lightning storm!
Before you go
Book early: Hotels fill up months in advance, particularly during high season (May through October, and over the holidays). Lodging reservations within the park are available 366 days in advance, and sell out within minutes. Check back frequently for cancellations, particularly two weeks prior to your intended visit. Or, opt for winter months for more plentiful lodging.
Plan ahead and prepare for any weather: For up-to-date road conditions and closures, call (209) 372-0200.
Need to Know: Yosemite National Park sprawls; for this two- or three-day itinerary, we’re rooting the trip in Yosemite Valley, a well-developed part of the park on the valley floor where the majority of visitors coalesce. And cell service is still hit or miss, so grab a map from the ranger’s station on your way in.
Where to stay
Two Family-Friendly Days in Yosemite Valley
Day 1: Exploring the Valley Floor
Morning
- First thing to do when you get there: Hop on the free shuttle to Lower Yosemite Falls Trailhead (Stop 6). Walk the one-mile paved trail loop in a clockwise direction for the best views of Yosemite Falls and Yosemite Creek. Bonus: If you’re pushing a stroller, the total elevation gain is approximately 50 feet, so you’ve got this!
- Take a good look in the Mirror: Sunrise is the best time to experience Mirror Lake. In springtime and early summer, you’ll be treated to a perfect mirrored reflection of Half Dome and Mount Watkins accessible via a two-mile round-trip loop. The trail has a modest 100-foot gain that you can reach by bicycle (rentable from Curry Village, the Yosemite Valley Lodge, and Yosemite Village, if you didn’t bring your own) or on foot. In winter the trail can be icy, so plan accordingly.
- Dine like royalty at the Ahwahnee: Now that you’ve worked up an appetite, settle in for the breakfast buffet at one of the most stunning dining rooms in North America, which has hosted the likes of John F. Kennedy, Jr., Barack Obama, Queen Elizabeth II, and Winston Churchill. If you happen to be visiting on a Sunday, the “Grand Brunch” buffet features additional dishes like prime rib and ham carving stations alongside eggs Benedict.
Mid Day
- Ride a bike: Spend the afternoon following the 20-mile Valley Floor Loop bike paths through lush meadows and forests. For those looking for a shorter ride that’s perfect for beginners, follow the trail’s 1.5-mile Yosemite Falls Viewpoint Route, which starts at Yosemite Village Parking Area and includes views of Cook’s Meadow, Half Dome, and Sentinel Rock. For a slightly longer 2.5-mile ride, but every bit as family friendly, take Mini Meadows Loop from the same starting point; it includes views of the Cook’s and Leidig meadows, Swinging Bridge, the Merced River, Half Dome, and the sweet little Yosemite Chapel, the park’s oldest structure.
- Grab a taco: Lunch options in the park are limited, but my family loves the Meadow Taqueria in Curry Village for a light bite with vegetarian and vegan options.
Afternoon
- Put your best skate forward: If you’re visiting November through March, you’ll want to lace up your skates for an afternoon outdoors at Yosemite’s Curry Village Ice Rink, which has been a beloved family tradition since 1928. Reservations are encouraged.
- Seasonal switch: In summer months, rent a raft from Curry Village and float or raft along the Merced River.
- Warm up with a hot drink: After skating, our favorite indulgence is the hot cocoa at the Ahwahnee (check out adult options like the Azteca). However, if you’re coming off the ice rink and need a quick fix, the cocoa at Peet’s Coffee in Curry Village does not disappoint.
- Seasonal switch: In warmer months, head to the Ahwahnee Hotel for a refreshing drink at an outdoor table overlooking the hotel’s meadow where children can run free.
Evening
- Hit the pizza deck: Curry Village is where the action is, so come early to grab a table on the Pizza Deck for hand-tossed pies with views of Glacier Point and Royal Arches. Grown-ups may opt to order a Mother Curry Margarita from the neighboring walk-up bar.
- Walk on the wild side: Learn about sensory adaptations and dark sky preservation on a 90-minute guided night walk that starts at the Yosemite Valley Lodge Amphitheatre. Flashlights are required, and depending on time of year, traction devices for shoes might be recommended. This one’s for older kids and adults.
Day 2: Elevating the Experience with Hiking, History, and Vistas
Morning
- Get a sweet or savory start: Grab pastries, breakfast sandwiches, and coffee at Yosemite Village’s Degnan’s Kitchen (Shuttle Stop 4) while you put in a sandwich order: You’ll pack away the latter to take on the trails later today. Our favorite is the #2 with turkey, Swiss cheese, and cranberry mayo on 12-grain bread.
- Here comes the Bridalveil Fall: Spring is the best time to see Bridalveil at its splashiest, though the falls are stunning year-round. The half-mile walk delivers big payoffs, and in spring and early summer after snowmelt, the waterfalls become the most powerful, with water volume at its highest — expect to get wet!
Mid Day
- Getting misty: When one waterfall whets your appetite for more, take the shuttle to Happy Isles (Stop 16) for the Mist Trail. This is a more strenuous hike for older kids and teens that involves a three-mile round trip to the top of Vernal Falls and a 1,000-foot gain — or continue on for a seven-mile round trip to the top of Nevada Fall and an 1,800-foot gain. Whichever adventure you choose, the Mist Trail promises some of Yosemite’s most iconic and beautiful vistas.
- Lunch at altitude: It’s a scientifically proven fact that a sandwich eaten outdoors at elevation tastes exponentially better than in a cafeteria. Once you’ve summited the Mist Trail to either Vernal or Nevada, find a nearby log or boulder to take a load off and unpack that Degnan’s sandwich. Almost certainly a marmot will ask for a bite, but please don’t feed the wildlife!
Afternoon
- Bring it into focus at an art gallery: Ansel Adams was celebrated for his black-and-white photographs of the American West, particularly his work in Yosemite. The Ansel Adams Gallery at Yosemite Village, which is nestled in the heart of Yosemite Valley between the Post Office and the Visitor Center, features original work from its namesake, as well as works from 20-some artists whose works embody the soul of the park.
- Feeling boulder?: Yosemite is ground zero for climbing (Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo should be required viewing before or after your trip), and nowhere offers a better insight than Camp 4, the so-called “Center of the Universe.” Just a short walk into the woods from the camp site, you will find some of the best bouldering on polished granite boulders to unwind after a day on the mountain. Depending on your comfort and skill level, you might try your hand at climbing or simply watch the pros.
Evening
- Sunset at Glacier Point: Photography enthusiasts flock to Glacier Point at sunset for the best views of Half Dome (or perhaps for the backdrop for your next holiday card). Visitors in late August are treated to views of the Milky Way.
- Coming down from the day’s highs: Now that you’ve summited a waterfall (or two!), it’s time to come back down to earth for dinner in the Mountain Room, so-called for its striking views of the 2,424-foot-high Yosemite Falls. The menu includes steaks, pastas, and seafood. We usually go for the local, sustainable trout, but have also been known to order the filet mignon. Reservations strongly encouraged, especially during high season.
If you have three days
All of the above, but add...
- Book a free 90-minute photography walk (limited to 10 people) that leaves the Ansel Adams Gallery at 9 a.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Staff photographers lead the walks, giving advice about composition and exposure for both digital and traditional formats. Reservations are required.
- Drive to Mariposa Grove, in the southern part of Yosemite National Park, near the south entrance off Highway 41, and visit the Grizzly Giant Sequoia — one of the largest living trees on earth — and the Fallen Monarch tree that kids can walk through. Plan to grab salads or sandwiches for lunch from the fridge at the nearby Wawona Store, located between the Wawona Hotel and the Pioneer Yosemite History Center.
- On a hot day, pack a swimsuit and a picnic and walk from Tuolumne Meadows Lodge to the Twin Bridges, where you’ll find a series of granite-lined swimming holes that are a dreamy place to park it for a leisurely afternoon.