Although San Antonio, Texas has long been a destination for in-state travelers, the rest of the world is only starting to warm up to its charms. Sure, the River Walk and Alamo are internationally known, but the marquee attractions are mere blips in this more than 300-year-old city. It also is home to a thrilling arts scene, eclectic bars and restaurants, and more weirdness than its central Texas neighbor, Austin, could ever manage.
The San Antonio Spurs are driving what promises to transform the town, an ambitious downtown entertainment district anchored by a new arena. For now, it’s easy to take in most of what the city offers tourists by renting an e-bike or taking a short rideshare trip.
Even without a new arena, the Spurs dominate San Antonio’s sports scene, with many murals paying homage to the local obsession. It is also home to a minor league baseball and soccer team and the 2021 and 2022 Conference USA football champions University of Texas San Antonio Roadrunners. Locals are allowed to be NFL agnostic, with fans flocking to the city’s wealth of sports bars.
Soaking up San Antonio culture requires more than a weekend trip, but this itinerary will help sports fans get the most of a 48-hour jaunt.
Who I am: I’m Brandon Watson—a reluctant sports fan who only caught the fever when the Spurs won the NBA championship in 1999. As a Texas food writer, San Antonio’s quickly growing scene brought me here during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. Unfortunately, I had to subsist on takeout and bagged margaritas for my first few months. Since then, I’ve basked in the gossip of a huge city with a small-town feel.
Need to know: Texas is infamous for its temperamental weather, but you can usually bet on at least one scorcher. Unless you are traveling in the dead of winter, pack short-sleeved shirts and breathable shoes. A few packs of hydration powder are welcome, too, especially if you plan on drinking. In the spring, avoid the dorky drug store poncho with a lightweight rain-proof jacket.
About the airport: Although it’s set to embark on a swanky renovation, San Antonio International Airport is currently no-frills. It’s not great for layovers, but makes for an efficient final stop. Tickets to the Alamo City are also among the most affordable in Texas. Consider making San Antonio the first leg of a statewide trip.
Book early: San Antonio is generally an impromptu city, but a few of the below spots require an advanced reservation. In peak season, the coveted soak times at Camp Hot Wells can fill up weeks in advance. Weekday tickets for the newly Michelin-starred Mixtli can be snagged a month ahead.
The Canopy sits adjacent to the River Walk in the heart of downtown. Memorable features include Mexico City-inspired design and a beautiful open-air bar; squeeze in a workout in the fitness room.
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Hotel Emma
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Each of the hotel's 27 rooms have their own identity; you’ll find vibrant beds, old school furniture, and unique Aubusson rugs. The Hemingway daiquiri at the Havana Bar is a must-order.
Minimalists will appreciate the clean lines, seen everywhere from the box-tufted headboards to a rectangular rooftop pool overlooking the glass facade of the Tobin Center for the Performing Arts.
Start with a breakfast taco: Don’t let the timeworn exterior deter you. Politicians, Spurs players, and local chefs flock to Maria’s Cafe. Generations of customers have added to an ever-growing list of off-the-menu specials like the Puffchilada, an enchilada stuffed puffy taco. Building your own creation might earn a chance to join the hall of fame scrawled on almost every available surface.
Pedal through history: First-timers to the Alamo are often surprised at how small it is, but it is just one of five Spanish colonial missions scattered across the city. Rent a bike from Blue Star Bike Shop and hit them all. The roughly 14-mile stretch takes about an hour to complete, but budget some time to check out the frescoes at Mission Concepción and the nation’s oldest aqueduct at Mission Espada.
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Mid day
Recharge with lunch and a michelada: Idle Brewings’ well-dressed micheladas, made with its house El Dorado lager, are almost a meal in themselves. But don’t miss the chance to order Thai fried chicken or Venezuelan arepas from adjacent food hall Make Ready Market.
Romp through an adult ball pit: We’re not above a travel thirst trap, especially when a travel museum gives us something to do other than pose. Forward-thinking downtown gallery Hopscotch allows you to bounce, dance, and spelunk your way through 15 interactive exhibits, including a glowing ball pit. Make sure to pocket a Purell bottle before you go.
Evening
Embark on a culinary trip: Each of Mixtli’s seasonal menus is an evocative exploration of Mexico’s history, culture, and terroir through clever riffs on traditional recipes and indigenous produce. Start the trek with a mezcal cocktail in the adjacent bar. Then prepare for adventurous dishes like suadero tacos or winter vegetables with pecan-acorn mole,
Score a nightcap: Catch sports highlights on one of McIntyre’s Southtown’s oversized screens. If the action lags, head to the patio to play cornhole, swing, or pet a pup under the misters.
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Day 2
Morning
Dive into the Pearl: Having breakfast options is essential, especially when traveling with a crew. Stroll through Pearl’s weekly farmers’ market to find single-origin coffee from What’s Brewing and pastries from The Beignet Stand. If there’s time for a more leisurely brunch, order a hearty chicken biscuit and an espresso martini at Full Goods Diner. A quieter leg of the River Walk is steps away to help with digestion.
Follow dinosaur’s footsteps: Getting to the Government Canyon State Natural Area requires a short drive north, but it features the only known dinosaur tracks in the area. The 40 miles of trails stop by attractions like a preserved 1880s house and a prehistoric midden, an ancestral achievement in handling domestic waste.
Mid day
Enjoy a bit of pure Americana: A San Antonio Missions game is a fun slice of culture especially when the Minor League Baseball team plays as their alter ego, the Flying Chanclas de San Antonio. Ship the usual hotdog and order a sausage wrap to hold you over until a late lunch.
Light up with a chispa: In San Antonio speak, chispas (Spanish for “spark”) are high-octane margaritas that can either ignite or ruin a drinker’s night. Stick with just one at Soluna, imbibed with a heaping plate of nachos compuestos.
You don’t have to be a basketball fan to appreciate the fiesta colors and bold graphics of this print from the Pearl District’s Felíz Modern. If you’re devoted to another team, the shop will be glad to sell you general San Antonio merch.
Catch some NBA action: Even the most die hard San Antonio Spurs supporter can admit that the hometown team is in the midst of an extended rebuilding “year,” but the game play is still world class. And even the nosebleed seats of the Frost Bank Center offer stellar views. For snacks, take advantage of the local restaurants like Benjie’s Munch or The Hayden that were selected to take part of the team’s Culinary Residency program, available at the balcony level, section 217 and club level section 20. More importantly, be sure to pick up a cap for the plane ride home. Even in off seasons, the Spurs win at merch.
Take a spin around the floor: Although not as legendary as some of Texas’ historic dance halls, Lonesome Rose keeps outlaw country’s free-wheeling spirit alive. Carry cash for the weekend cover charge, but don’t worry about wearing boots. The honky tonk off San Antonio’s bustling St. Mary’s Strip welcomes everyone from old cowhands to artsy hipsters.
With two spectacular caves, the Natural Bridge Caverns bring out child-like wonder in every guest. During San Antonio’s frying pan summers, the roadside attraction also brings a much-needed temperature drop.
The spirited city has collected a surplus of ghost stories, from the mournful La Llorana to Jack to a mischievous poltergeist frightening coeds at Our Lady of the Lake University. Curious Twins Paranormal, a spooky tour, pinballs you through all the things that go bump in San Antonio’s night.
In the early 20th century the historic Hot Wells promised restoration through sulfuric waters at one of San Antonio’s earliest resorts. Though the original site has been damaged by fire and weather, you can still get in a soak at Camp Hot Wells next door.
